THE SWEETNESS OF CANE AT GONDANG WINANGOEN

When I poured the sugar cane, then stir in a cup of hot tea, sometimes I imagine the government-owned sugar cane plantation's great profit in the period of Cultuurstelsel in Dutch Indies.
Now, the of colonial legacy was memorialized in an old sugar factory,
Suiker Fabriek Gondang Winangoen 1860, Klaten, Central Java.



The Principal Gate of Gondang Winangoen Sugar Cane Factory 1860





The Gondang Winangoen sugar cane factory - 1921
Source: KITLV


The Gondang Winangoen sugar cane factory - 2010



The Dutch officer house in 1921.
Built in the indische style in the end of 19th century.
See the tuscans column in portico and its base.
Source: KITLV



The Dutch officer house in present day.
The Sugar Cane Museum - Central Java since 11th of September 1982


ON MISSION

The Gondang Winangoen Suiker fabriek located at Jogja-Solo road, exactly at the Village Plawikan, Jogonalan District, Klaten Regency. Inside the factory area there are beautiful tropical houses built in 1930s, until now most still maintained and used as a sugar factory employee residence.

On 18th of August 2010, accompanied by Budi N. Dharmawan, we cruised that sugar factory which built in 1860. We want to tread the golden history of Gondang Winangoen Sugar Factory, feel the life an ambtenaar with overnight stay in a indische house which used administratuur in colonial era.

Fortunately, we came right on the milling season. Sip the sweetness of cane at Gondang Winangoen.

MAP OF KLATEN


The red point is the location of Gondang Winangoen Suiker Fabriek
[Midden-Java]
“Semarang - Magelang - Jogjakarta – Soerakarta”
Published by het Officieele Toeristen Bureau
Batavia, 1925
Source:
Koninklijk Instituut voor de Tropen – Mauritskade 63, 1092 AD Amsterdam



“Residentie Semarang en Djapara-Rembang, Kedoe, Klaten, Soerakarta, Madioen : voorloopige overzichtskaart van de bergcultuur ondernemingen”
vervaardigd door het geografisch instituut van de topografische dienst
Topografische dienst
Batavia, 1947
Source:
Koninklijk Instituut voor de Tropen – Mauritskade 63, 1092 AD Amsterdam

THE OLDEST MILLING MACHINE

We amazed about the giant wheels, tubes, and pipes. As a satire novel in 18th century works of Jonathan Swift, we are like the Lilliputians in the Gulliver’s country. In the milling station, I found the inscription written on the machine with the French language ”Moulin A Cannes A Pressions Multiles Systeme B.Lahaye & Brissonneau F&C Brevete SGDG Anciens Establissements Cail Contructeurs No.7 Paris 1884”. It means the multiple systems sugar cane milling machines were made in France 1884, which identified the oldest engine of the many sugar factories in Indonesia.

CARBONATATION SYSTEM


The Evaporation Station - 1921
Source: KITLV


Evaporation Station - 2010

After the “Purification Station”, the net sap flows into the pipes through the soared tubes in “Evaporation Station” to get the juice with a certain viscosity.

Uniquely, the purification process in Gondang Winangoen using double carbonatation system since Dutch Indies which does not exist in other sugar factories today. The carbonatation involves the introduction of milk of lime (calcium hydroxide suspension) and carbon dioxide enriched gas into the "raw juice" to form calcium carbonate and precipitate impurities that are then removed.

We amazed about the giant wheels, tubes, and pipes. As a satire novel in 18th century works of Jonathan Swift, we are like the Lilliputians in the Gulliver’s country.

THE OLD LOCO OF
ORENSTEIN KOPPEL 1931

The "Gendismanis" - old loco from Orenstein Koppel 1931
This old locomotive had served in the Rendeng Sugar Factory in Kudus until 1998. "Initially used as a carrier of cane for about the 2 years in Gondang Winangoen. Name of Gendismanis inaugurated at a pre-milling ceremony in May 2010 ", said Bimo Satrio an employees of Gondang Winangoen Museum. After the conservation process since late 2009, now it is revitalized as the old locomotive train in Agrotourism of Gondang Winangoen.



The Operator



The Stoker

Inside the Sugar Cane Factory


HISTORICAL BACKGROUND

This plant was built by a trading company of NV Klatensche Cultuur Maatschappij in 1860, or ten years before the end of Cultuurstelsel (forced cultivation system). By coincidence, when the plant was built, ironically Eduard Douwes Dekker (pseudonym as Multatuli) published the book "Max Havelaar" which contains scathing criticism of the system of forced cultivation that shook the public.

The Residuals





Unused Railway



The Giant Tubes and Tower



The Boiler Station
Labor works to supply the timber for cane manufacturing.




Without Ear Silencer
A worker who served as a guard engine is sitting relaxed, ignoring the noise of the engine roar that we think is deafening. "It is usual, it doesn’t matter", he said casually when I asked why not use the silencer for his ear.



The Exotic House and Garden
Surrounding the sugar cane factory, there are many beautiful houses with tropical roof and cozy veranda built in 1930's.

ADMINISTRATUUR HUIS

We spent a night in this old mansion, called "Rumah Besaran". It is a former house of administrator in colonial era. Sitting on the veranda, pouring tea and sugar, then stir. Now the show is no longer the bitter forced cultivation system more than 150 years ago. Without intend to forget the history, the sweetness of the colonial legacy made an impression on tongue and heart, until now.

Administratuur huis - 1921
Built in Indische style in the end of 19th century.
Source: KITLV


Adminitratuur huis - 2010
Probably, this house was renovated in the 1930's. The facade of this house was improved by new modern style, an art deco style which more simple in its facade.

***
See a whole this story in
National Geographic Traveler - Indonesian Edition
November-December 2010

My Odyssey on History Channel: HIDDEN CITIES - INDONESIA

Start:	Nov 11, '10 6:00p
End:	Nov 29, '10 07:00a
Location:	History Channel Asia

Hidden Cities: Indonesia



Watch my adventure with Anthony Morse on History Channel: Hidden Cities. Cruising the Japanese bunker and interview with an elderly woman who worked to establish the military shelter in Ngretjo-Goenoengwesi, South Coast of Jogjakarta.

The History Channel, is an international satellite and cable TV channel that broadcasts programs regarding historical events and persons. It is more than facts, dates and people – it is the experience. It is the choices people made, facing the same dilemmas we face today.

HISTORY is yesterday, today, and tomorrow.
Every day, HISTORY is being made.


-Behind the Scene on Goenoengwesi Hill-
Mahandis Yoanata (left) and the Singaporean crews: Adi, Lou (camera person), Anthony Morse (host), and Justin (audiographer)

Schedule
Thursday 11 November 7:00 PM HK/SIN/MAL 6:00 PM Thai/WIB
Friday 12 November 1:00 AM HK/SIN/MAL 12:00 AM Thai/WIB
Friday 12 November 7:00 AM HK/SIN/MAL 6:00 AM Thai/WIB
Friday 12 November 1:00 PM HK/SIN/MAL 12:00 PM Thai/WIB
Saturday 13 November 12:00 AM HK/SIN/MAL 11:00 AM Thai/WIB
Sunday 14 November 9:00 PM HK/SIN/MAL 8:00 PM Thai/WIB
Monday 15 November 2:00 AM HK/SIN/MAL 1:00 AM Thai/WIB
Monday 15 November 2:00 PM HK/SIN/MAL 1:00 PM Thai/WIB
Saturday 20 November 1:00 PM HK/SIN/MAL 12:00 PM Thai/WIB
Friday 26 November 10:00 PM HK/SIN/MAL 9:00 PM Thai/WIB
Saturday 27 November 4:00 AM HK/SIN/MAL 3:00 AM Thai/WIB
Saturday 27 November 4:00 PM HK/SIN/MAL 3:00 PM Thai/WIB
Monday 29 November 8:00 AM HK/SIN/MAL 7:00 AM Thai/WIB


Japanese bunker and pillbox
There are 18 bunkers, built in 1942-45. They were interconnected among other bunkers by the trench. Part of trench is still visible until today.

Probably, The Japanese used this battery for coast watchers lookout, reconnaissance, military equipments storage, kitchen including the remains stoves, and briefing chamber. However, Japanese required the defense in South Coast of Java for precautionary the threatening of Allied Forces, especially Australia.

THE LONESOME BATAVIA’S LIGHTHOUSE IN MUARABARU

“…Batavia itself, nothing but a white chalked lighthouse is visible, then a small fortress hidden behind earthen walls and at the end of a small canal…”
Gevers Deynot, Herinneringen Eener Reis Naar Nederlandsch Indie in 1862, 1864.

“At the end of one of these moles, or walls, stands a small white lighthouse, indicating the way of approaching the city, which cannot be fully seen from the anchorage”
Albert S. Bickmore, Travels in the East Indian Archipelago, 1869.




ON MISSION

Lighthouse is a tower or other building with a powerful light at top, erected at the entrance of a port, or at some important point on a coast, to serve as a guide to mariners at night.

Observing the nearly forgotten old lighthouse in Muarabaru, northernmost point of Batavia, now Jakarta, on 13th of January 2010, accompanied by lovely Youfeta Devy.

This lonesome lighthouse was established in the mid of 19th century.

At least two travelers visited the Batavia’s harbor have reported about the lighthouse in 1860s. However, today this lighthouse is no longer in use.



THE LOCATION



The yellow dotted is the position of Batavia's lighthouse

Source:

"Plateground van Batavia"

Nederlandsche Topographischen Dienst - 1901

BATAVIA’S LIGHTHOUSE IN MUARABARU
ARLHS IDO-063; Admiralty K1068.5; NGA 23416

This lonesome lighthouse was established in the mid of 19th century. It had focal plane 17 m (56 ft); red flash every 3 s. 16 m (52 ft). Built in round stone tower and painted white.

Vuurtoren-Batavia, probably end of 19th century.

Printed by "Boekhandel Visser & Co" - Weltevreden

A postcard dated 12 November 1907

The Batavia's lighthouse and buildings of the port - 1880

Source: Tropenmuseum - Amsterdam

Batavia's Lighthouse in 1914

Source: KITLV

Batavia's Lighthouse in 1938

Source: Tropenmuseum - Amsterdam

Batavia's Lighthouse in early of 20th century

Source: Tropenmuseum - Amsterdam

OTHER OLD LIGHTHOUSES SUROUNDING BATAVIA

Pulau Edam: ARLHS IDO-061; Admiralty K1062; NGA 23404
Located at Pulau Edam, the center of the entrance to the bay of Jakarta. Established in 1881. This lighthouse has a focal plane 55 m (180 ft) with four white flashes every 20 s. 50 m (164 ft) and sided cast iron tower with lantern and gallery.

Tanjung Priok Inner Harbor: Admiralty K1073.5; NGA 23428.
Located near the harbor at Tipar, North Jakarta now. Established unknown, but the station established in 1885. It had focal plane 46 m (151 ft), installed the white flash every 10 s. 40 m (131 ft) skeletal tower, painted white.


REMARKS

Sturdy Figures

Photographed by Youfeta Devy

Present day, this lighthouse is located in the area of fish port, not on the top of waterbreaker anymore.

Destruction by neglected is a crime!

Inside The Chartered Bank: J. SABELIS’ COLORFUL STAINEDGLASS

The Cupola of Chartered Bank

This British overseas bank has three storey building which garnished by copula, that is a small domed structure on top of its roof, the gallery which garnished by long arcade, and the Doric column which installed in the front facade.

The Marble Plague Inscription

"THE FIRST STONE OF THIS BUILDING WAS LAID ON 27 FEBRUARY 1921 BY JOYCE MURRAY STEWART DAUGHTER OF THE MANAGER OF THE BATAVIA AGENCY OF THE CHARTERED BANK OF INDIA, AUSTRALIAN, AND CHINA"

Broadly, this neo-classical architecture adopted the rationalism and traditionalism in early 20th century.  It was the representative office of “Chartered Bank of India, Australia, & China” in Batavia, sited at Kali Besar West No. 1 – 2, on the corner of Gang Malaka and Kali Besar West. The bank's traditional business was in cotton from Bombay, indigo and tea from Calcutta, rice from Burma, sugar from Java, tobacco from Sumatra, hemp from Manila and silk from Yokohama.

THE MAP OF KALI BESAR AND ITS SURROUNDINGS

Blue point indicates the position of this building
“Batavia Military Guide Map”

Published by Survey HQAFNEI in December 1945.
Source: KIT - Netherlands
Courtesy of Hatmanto Sri Nugroho

______________________________________________________________


THE STAINEDGLASS:
J. SABELIS & CO. HAARLEM – NETHERLANDS
J. Sabelis & Co., Paint and Glaseries, Spaarne 73-79 and Gierstraat 60 in Haarlem.
1889-1926

Below, the detail of J. Sabelis’s work.
It describes the plantation activity in Netherlands Indies
with the gesture in European style.

Man Carried Tobacco

Rice Pounding Lady

Sugarcane Worker

Lady with Her Handbag

Rubber Plantation Worker

______________________________________________________________

Chartered Bank of India, Australia, and China in Batavia – 1920s

THE TIMELINE HISTORY OF CHARTERED BANK

1853
The Chartered Bank of India, Australia and China was a bank founded in London by James Wilson following the grant of a Royal Charter from Queen Victoria.

James Wilson
[3 June 1805 – 11 August 1860]
Painted by Sir John Wilson Gordon
Source: National Portrait Gallery, London

1858
The bank opened its first branches in Calcutta and Bombay and then Shanghai.

1859
The bank opened a branch in Hong Kong and an agency in Singapore.

1861
The Singapore agency was upgraded to a branch.

1862
The bank was authorized to issue bank notes in Hong Kong,
and printed bank notes in China and Malaya in the following decades.

1863
The Chartered Bank agency was established in Batavia.

1912
The New York branch was established.

1921
New building of representative office in Batavia was opened in Kali Besar West No. 1 – 2, on the corner of Gang Malaka and Kali Besar West with building size of 2,279 m2.
Designed by EHGH Cuypers (1859-1927)

1942-45
The Chartered Bank was affected by Japanese occupation.

1957
Chartered Bank bought the Eastern Bank together with the Ionian Bank's Cyprus Branches. This established a presence in the Gulf.

1964
The Indonesia government nationalized Chartered Bank’s operations in Indonesia and merged them into Bank Umum Negara (BUNEG).

1965
The Indonesia government brought BUN into the Bank Negara Indonesia (BNI) group,
renaming it Bank Negara Indonesia Unit IV (BNI IV).

1968
The Indonesian government again reorganized some banks. BNI IV became an independent bank with the name Bank Bumi Daya (BBD).

1969
Chartered Bank merged with the Standard Bank of British South Africa
(founded by John Paterson in 1862) and became the Standard Chartered Bank.

1999
The restructuring agenda for the banking sector
on the subject of financial and banking crisis,
the government merged four state ownership banks: Bank Bumi Daya (BBD), Bank Dagang Negara (BDN), Bank Ekspor Impor (Exim), and Bank Pembangunan Indonesia (Bapindo). The new bank was established: Bank Mandiri.


______________________________________________________________


THE ARCHITECTURE INSIGHT

Gorgeous Minutiae of Neo-Romanesque Gallery
The Chartered Bank in Batavia was designed by Amsterdam architect, 
Eduard Gerard Hendrik Hubert Cuypers 
(Roermond, 18th of April 1859 - Den Haag, 1st of June 1927)

Eduard Cuypers, also a younger nephew of Piere Cuypers (a senior Dutch architect), adopted the Rationalism and Traditionalism value that quickly emerged after the first world war. The architecture of The Chartered Bank has a conception which seems strongly influenced by the Empire style popular and in use by the British in India. 

Rationalism tendencies with maximum economy in the use of land and in construction; the attention to the specific characteristics of different materials (wood, iron, glass, metals, etc.), the idea that artistic form derives from a previously defined method or problem, leading to the correspondence between form and function, and constant use of new technologies.  

Whereas the Traditionalism was a reaction against the Functionalism and the Expressionism of the Amsterdam School, and returning spirit to rural and national architectural styles and traditions, with tidy brickwork, minimal decoration.

“GANJANG MALAYSIA”
TERMINATED THE CHARTERED BANK

Soekarno’s thought about “NeoKoLim” (Neo-Colonialism, Colonialism, and Imperealism) torched and fueled the Indonesian’s confrontation to Malaysia in 1964. It applied that the British overseas enterprises in Indonesia would be nationalized as well to eliminate the influence of the neo-colonialism. Indonesian supposed that The British and its colony (Malaysia) was the agent of neo-colonialism, hence they had to be wiped out, without any exception.

THE STANDART CHARTERED BANK TODAY

The office building of Chartered Bank in Batavia told us about history of Standard Chartered Bank today. In the beginning, the bank opened the representative in Batavia since 1863. Present day, it has 14 branches in 7 largest cities in Indonesia; Jakarta, Surabaya, Bandung, Semarang, Medan, Surakarta and Denpasar. Hoewever, the heritage office building in Kali Besar was property as Indonesian state ownership bank since 1964.

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REFERENCES

“The Virtual Museum of Religious Architecture in Netherlands”

“Encyclopaedia Itau Cultural”

“Eduard Gerard Hendrik Hubert Cuypers”

“The Quest for the Ultimate Architecture Indonesia in the Late Colonial Period”
By Cor Passchier

“Het Indische Bouwen”
Architectuur en stedebouw in Indonesie
Seminar of Change and Heritge in Indonesian Cities, 1988  

THE 222 YEARS OF FRANS DAVID COCHIUS: ENGINEER OF FORTIFICATION STRATEGY IN JAVA WAR

Lieutenant-General Frans David Cochius in 1850

[3rd of December 1787  – 1st of May 1876]

Lithograph in format of 32x24.5cm

Source: KITLV

Engineer of Battlefield Fortification Strategy in 1827-30

in sequence capturing Diponegoro

 

 

If Frans David Cochius was still alive today, he must be 222 years old in December 2009. Who is he? I’ll bring his short biography and compartment in sequence of capturing Diponegoro in Java War.

 

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Java War 1825-30 was the badly war in the history of colonization in Netherlands Indies. For the first time the colonial government faced a massive social rebellion covering large part of Java: 2 million Javanese people were exposed to the ravages of war, 200 thousands Javanese were died. On the other hand, Dutch suffered 8 thousands European troops and 7 thousands of Indonesian troops who fought for Dutch were perished. The war consequence was rising cost about 20 million guilders! The war that perished everything both Javanese and Dutch side.

 

The Java War was started in a rebellion led by Pangeran Diponegoro for the reason of Dutch political intervention in the Court of Mataram (general reason), and Dutch decision to build a road across a piece of his ancestral property (personal reason).

 

 

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F.D. Cochius was an expertise in fortification. He designed the prototype of battlefield fortification strategy [Benteng Stelsel]. The fort was built in high terrain, a square building made by coconut tree height about 7-8 feet.The cannons were applied in the one of diagonal corner of the fort. Each corner has two cannons.

 

In the throne of Governor General Du Bus de Gissignies, the government of Dutch Indies failed to extinguish the rebellion of Diponegoro. In several party the Diponegoro army defeated the Dutch Indies army, such as campaign for capturing Kejiwan [August 1826], campaign of Delanggu [August 1826], and campaign of Gawok [October 1826]. Military operation did not reach the objective. General H.M. de Kock ordered to Colonel F.D. Cochius for planning the prototype of battlefield fortification strategy.

 

This prototype was implied in battlefield fortification strategy in area Bagelen, Banjoemas, Gowong, Ledok, Kedhu, and Jogjakarta. It could be the simple fort for defense in Java War for the reason for limitation the movement of Diponegoro. It was the temporary battlefield fortification: a simple building for military defense, efficient in raw material for the building, and the materials are available in Java.

 

The strategy of Battlefield Fortification was implied since May 1827. The Battlefield Fortification means that fort was not only have a passive role in the military defense, but it’s emphasized that the fort has active and important role as quarter for offensive operation, military command and control and logistic purposes. Broadly speaking, fort was attempted as warfare and military strategic. In period of May – December 1827 General H.M. de Kock established about 30 forts surrounding Central Java.

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THE ACHIEVEMENTS

F.D. Cochius was born 3rd of December 1787 in Valburg.

His parents are Gerrit Jan Casparus Cochius and Anna Dibbets.

He died in Huize Vredenoord near Rijswijk, Netherlands on 1st of May 1876.

 

July 1811:

Captain in the French Army

December 1814:

Captain in Netherlands Army

May 1822:

Awarded “Ridder IIIe klasse of Officier in de Militaire Willems-Orde” [MWO], the 3rd Class Knight in Military Order of William in his service as engineer attached to Headquarters during the Waterloo Campaign.

September 1825:

Lieutenant-Colonel F.D. assaulted the Jogjakarta. He was the Commander of Garrison of Soerakarta with 2 companies of infantry [Hulptropen from Soemenap and Legion of Mangkoenegaran], 1 platoon of cavalery [Huzar], and 12 Light Infantry [Dragonder].

October 1825:

He designed the prototype of temporary battlefield fortification in Kalidjengking. His designed would be adopted in to Fortification Strategy in following Java War 1826 – 30.

June 1826:

Capturing Pleret, a fort of Diponegoro in Southern of Jogjakarta with more than 7.000 Dutch soldiers.

July 1826:

He lead the movement to Dekso, a new headquarter of Diponegoro after Pleret conquered by Dutch Army.

1827:

Commander in Military Operation District of Jogjakarta

April 1828:

Battle of Bedoyo, he waved Diponegoro army out from this village.

July - August 1828:

Colonel Cochius occupied the valley of Progo and assault the Diponegoro army between Progo and Opak rivers.

January 1829:

Military operation to North Mataram.

This operation was moving Diponegoro in to the western Progo River successfully.

The operation continued to Southern Mountains of Jogjakarta.

July 1829:

Capturing Fort Geger. This fort was built by coral materials.

March 1830:

Colonel Cleerens with Diponegoro arrived in Magelang.

The Kedhu Resident and military chief, including Colonel F.D. Cochius met them in Magelang before the capitulation 28 of March 1830. Based on capturing Diponegoro in Magelang, it designate that the Java War was terminated.

Post of Java War, Colonel F.D. Cochius was the commander in Salatiga, a town in Java.

1831 - 37:

Extinguishing of the uprising of the Padri's Islamic fundamentalist insurgents in the mountains of western Sumatra raged.

August 1837:

Conquered the Fort Bondjol in West Sumatra.

May 1838:

Commander Militaire Willemsorde

September 1837:

1st Colonial Infantry Battalion in Bondjol for Major General F.D. Cochius, RVH

[Van Heutz Regiment].

November 1841:

12th Infantry Battalion in Batavia for Lieutenant-General F.D. Cochius, RVH

[Van Heutz Regiment].

April 1846:

13th Infantry Battalion in Batavia for Lieutenant-General F.D. Cochius, RVH

[Van Heutz Regiment].

 

 

 

 

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FORT COCHIUS IN WEST BAGELEN – GOMBONG:

COMMEMORATE OF LIEUTENANT GENERAL F.D. COCHIUS

 

Governor General Johannes van den Bosch determined "Algemeene Orders voor het Nederlandsch-Oost-Indische Leger" in 1830, which lead the commencement for new military organization in Netherlands-Indies: “Oost-Indische Leger”.

 

 

Principal Entrance of Fort Cochius

This fort built in 1833, after The Java War

Western Gate

 

In 1833 a modern fort was established in octagonal platform. Probably this fort replacing the battery of Kemit which built in 1827. It was origin from the temporary fort that built in the period Java War. The fort was inaugurated as Fort Cochius, to commemorate the engineer of Battlefield Fortification Strategy in 1827-30, Lieutenant-General F.D Cochius. 

 

However, as established in the post Java War period, means afterward the turbulence in Java, the Fort Chochius was purposed as military logistic rather than military defense.

 

 

See also:

FORT GENERAL COCHIUS:

OCTAGONAL FORTRESS IN KEMIT - WEST BAGELEN

 

 

 

REFERENCES

“Generaal-maj. Cochius dwingt de vesting Bonjol tot overgave (16-08-1837)”

Koninklijke Landmacht

Ministerie van Defensie – Den Haag

http://www.defensie.nl

 

Koninklijk Instituut voor Taal-, Land- en Volkenkunde

Royal Netherlands Institute of Southeast Asian and Caribbean Studies – Leiden

www.kitlv.nl

 

“Strategi Menjinakkan Diponegoro: Stelsel Benteng 1827-1830”

By Saleh A. Djamhari

Published by Komunitas Bambu, Jakarta, 2003.

 

“The Origins of the Java War (1825-30)”

By Peter Carey

The English Historical Review, Vol. 91, No. 358

Published by Oxford University Press, January, 1976